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Viewing 30 results - 1 through 30 (of 608 total)
  • Participant

    Hello everyone,
    In case extrusion screws run out of stock in the bazar or unavailable in your country, I found a supplier who provides extrusion screws, barrels and other accessories.
    They both have 588mm and 790mm sizes.

    Here the links :
    588mm set (screw+barrel+nozzle or just separately)

    790mm set (screw+barrel+nozzle or just separately)

    Also a nice post to make your own filament maker :

    TO precious plastic team : You can delete my message if you think it is not appropriated to send it here. I don’t advertise anything, I just want to help people to find this famous screw so difficult to obtain.


    In reply to: Reuse and Upcycling


    I am not personally involved in these efforts so I don’t have any direct information but here are a couple of links to get you started.


    In reply to: Dyeing plastic


    I know this is an old post but i feel like I should minimally add some information because I discovered this thread before I found my answer.

    I’m not a fan of that dye method in the youtube video, but it’s nice to know that you have options if your object is already made.

    What I suggest is mixing pigment with your plastic and extrude it. This helps mix things up.  You can extrude to directly make a new product or make filament to shred again so you can use in another machine.  It’s up to you.

    Some pigments will change physical characteristics more than others.  If you use Carbon Black or Titanium Dioxide, they both will help protect your product from UV rays.  Some pigments might fade quicker than others.


    Check out this website: https://polymer-additives.specialchem.com/selection-guide/pigments-for-plastics

    How much pigment to use?  I haven’t gone over 2% with titanium dioxide, but I did read somewhere that if you want to UV protect your plastic with Carbon Black, you need to figure out the total weight of the plastic for your product, then take 2-3% of that weight and add that much of carbon black.

    Example: The object you want to make is going to weigh 1,000g (1kg).  So we take 1,000g of the plastic you want to use, then add carbon black that’s equal to 2-3% of that plastic weight.
    1,000g x 0.02 = 20g. (2 percent of 1,000g is 20g.)
    1,000g x 0.03 = 30g. (3 percent of 1,000g is 30g.)

    Good luck everyone!  And please share your experiences and results.


    Ok, time again for an update!

    Lately, I’ve been working on the extruder again. Mostly doing cable management and designing a cooling system for the feed section. I had an issue of clogging the feeding tube with prematurely molten pellets. As a solution I added three heat sinks with active cooling onto the barrel. Still to be tested, but I think it will work.

    I wanted also to have the thermocouple sensor boards as close as possible to the heater bands, so there would be only minimal interference in the signal lines. Now, the data and the power wires gets terminated in a single junction box. Ideally, there would be only one single cable sleeve clipped to the pellet feeding hose later, but for now I’ll go with this solution.

    Next, I will focus on an anti-ooze mechanism for the nozzle to prevent leaking during moves across the print. With a screw extruder you won’t be able to retract filament, and so you will have to come up with a valve-like solution. More on that in a later post.

    Please let me know if you would be interested in beta testing. The beta extruder will be available later this year for a reasonable price.


    You control the diameter of filament by measuring the diameter live then pulling it to diameter where it is still hot after the nozzle. This stretches the filament to make it small.er. If it is to big then you don’t stretch as quickly.


    hey, we are catching up right now with v3/v4 followups. there will be details in the wiki as well the PP community pages at some point, soonish. 40% income tax (and more) isn’t only for Spain btw.  – at least if you crossed some levels as freelancer.

    for now we have to sort out the very details for 7 v3 machines, and around 5 v4 machines, – it isn’t exactly easy to get the production streamlined and well documented as well supported all over the planet – on the side , voluntarily. luckily, we have some resources to get this done acceptable. there is quite some software to be written first, a new forum, bazar, shop, product, specs, moderator, contributor,…opensource templates, manuals, translations,  name it … 🙂

    so please, hang on, it’s around the corner, including a portal to community projects as filament, 3d print, automatic injection, …


    Hi Tim, Great to get this from you. TY

    1. There is no bottom, Just sides walls frames (HDPE sheets will form the top/bottom walls)
    2. Corners will have a Rad. 1mm? or cutting tool dia.
    3. I forgot to mention the Liquid fill hole. On 1 side of the 8cm sides, need a 2mm hole in the center or 4CM from the edge.

    The Drawing can show the hole. Yet when making the mould, maybe easier to drill the hole out as to creating a Mould??

    Thanks and looking forward to building 🙂
    This could also be printed with  3D printer HDPE Filament.

    Craig 🙂



    @snowcode seems it looks like you are not very familiar with all the processes involved in filament extrusion, I suggest you to have a look at Werbewunder’s youtube channel, that will give you a better idea of what’s involved

    In reply to: Request for help


    Hi Gefen, I have extensive experience with 3D printing. What do you mean by filler? Are you referring to the filament used for printing? If so, what plastic would you like to use?


    I wanted to know how to control the diameter of the plastic output of the extruder. I want to make 3D printer filament of 1.75 mm PLA.

    So, I suppose you we can do it with the nozzle size but I don’t know more about it…

    Can you help me?


    TPU is an interesting material used for soft products like shoe soles and phone covers. It is also used as 3D printing filament. I think, once shredded, you can do lots stuff with it, like 3D-printing filament. I know one Swiss company that recycles used ski boots into filament. TPU also has several shore-grade, which define the softness/hardness of the material.

    As of silicone, I’m not sure if its reusable. I’ve been working with silicone resin and they all have been thermosets. Means, once it is cure, you can’t reform it anymore. Please correct me, if I’m wrong.


    Well, actually, that’s a good question! I don’t really have a method of monitoring the motor power output. I can set the stepper driver amperage and the control software gives me information about set and actual speed, but I think for real measurements I would have to hook a torque meter on the motor shaft?

    The die swell seems to be quite essential. For now the nozzle diameter is 1.75 mm, but I was thinking about a nozzle size of 5-6 mm in order to get the carbon fibers nice and easily through the orifice.

    One thing, I have to figure out somehow is the e-steps/mm value, which is usually determined by the difference 100 mm filament extrusion and the actual measurement. But… I’m not extruding filament :/ any ideas?


    Thank you for your feedback!

    Yes, indeed the use of HDPE/PP will be a challenge in every way, but as I mentioned, I’m going to mix long (6-25 mm), chopped, carbon fibers into the polymer in order to gain maximal strength and rigidity. I’ve been printing quite a lot with CF-enhanced filaments like CF-Nylon and CF-PET/G and you can achieve pretty amazing stuff with them, although the fibers in those filaments are quite short. Usually they have to go through a nozzle of 0.4/0.6mm.

    The nozzle size I’m aiming at with my pellet extruder would be 5-6mm. This enables me to use much longer fibers, maybe even a continuous fiber tow. The polymer acts as a binder material to keep the fibers together. For sure, this process won’t give you parts as strong and stiff as the cross laminated carbon fiber mats, but I’ve read some research that stated that the strength could be as high as 45% of a traditional carbon fiber part. The material testing of the printed CF-HDPE/PP will be also part of my thesis.

    For now, let’s say it is a hunch, that there could be something in this approach. In 5-6 months I can deliver facts.

    As for the size of the stepper motor and the reducer, I used the Dyze Design Pulsar extruder as benchmark. The stepper I’m using is Nema 23 with a 47:1 reducer. We’ll see, if that is going to generate enough torque. According to the torque curve, it should be able to output 40Nm at low speed. The screw profile is a standard 3-stage compression profile, channel depth starting at the 4 mm feed section and going up to 1.5 mm at the metering section. The L/D ratio is around 14:1.

    The mass of the extruder and its inertia will be an issue, but I regard it to be solvable by a stronger/stiffer frame. The BLDC I’m going to use have enough power and speed. I’m not sure though, if I manage to come up with an improved frame on schedule. My backup plan is to bolt the extruder to the gantry of our school’s CNC router.

    I’ll keep you updated 🙂


    Thank you for posting this. I had not seen the hangprinter materials. Sounds like you have and exciting project for your thesis.

    A few questions and comments:
    How did you size the stepper motor/gearbox for your extruder? What does the leadscrew profile look like?

    Doing a scooter frame design with HDPE or PP sounds challenging given the low structural properties. I wonder if you will end up with mostly solid cross sections.

    The hangprinter design appears to be sensitive to printhead inertia. Putting your extruded on the print head will increase both the mass and the moment of inertia. The printhead that @3dseed https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/3d-printer-for-pet-particles-no-filament-ever/ is using in his design appears to be a lot smaller. Perhaps for larger prints, develop a larger or flexible hopper that can feed a smaller printhead.

    Please post updates, this is an interesting approach.


    Hi there!

    I’ve been following Precious Plastic for about a year now and I have to say, it’s a wonderful project! One, I’d like to contribute to at some point. Currently, I’m in my last year of industrial design studies and I’ll start soon my Bachelors Thesis on designing a 3D-printable monocoque frame for an electric scooter.

    I’m planning to actually print & test the frame next spring/summer. As my primary tool I will use my Hangprinter, that I’ve been developing the past 1.5 years. The Hangprinter is a frameless printer-concept by Torbjorn Ludvigsen. The printer consists of a base unit with all the electronics and motion mechanics, and three anchor points on ground level for dyneema lines, which are used to position the print head. It is a quite unique concept, but foremost it is easily scalable to (theoretically) any size needed by only extending the lines.

    For more detailed information you can head over to http://www.hangprinter.org There is also plenty of information on the RepRap Forum

    My printer has currently a 2.5 m tall tetrahedron frame, a heated print surface and the e3d-online SuperVolcano filament extruder attached to it. I did this summer two big print projects on it. One was a giant high heel for a finnish shoe designer and for the other project we printed the shell parts of a prototype robot. What I learned, was that the current FDM-technology is far too slow for a printer this big and of course that in long term it is not viable to print anything else than waste plastic.

    This is also the reason, I’ve been interested in Precious Plastic. You guys have come up with nice machinery for shredding and extruding plastics. If you want to print with waste plastic, the first step is to shred it. My initial thought was to make my own filament, but after second thoughts I realized, that it is just a unnecessary step. So, I began to study commercial pellet extruders and their open source counterparts. Finally, I designed my own extruder and I’m now in short time getting it ready for testing.

    Tech specs are as followed:
    Weight: 4.5kg
    Length: 550mm
    Effective screw length: 225mm
    Heating: 3 x 180W /230V

    First, I’m going to test commercially available recycled HDPE and PP pellets in order to rule out issues caused by raw material impurities and quality, but eventually my plan is to test shredded flakes.

    I know that both HDPE and PP are going to be really tough to print due to their heavy warping properties. That is something, that can possibly be addressed only by a controlled heat chamber. But before that is going to be on my todo list, my idea is to mix chopped carbon fibers into the polymer. Fiber-enhanced polymers usually print nicely, since the warping is mostly eliminated. I’m hoping this will be the case also with HDPE and PP.

    The printer frame is going to need an update to be able to handle the stress caused by the pellet extruder. I already have a new set of BLDC-motors with rotary encoders, that will do the heavy lifting. Each of them is rated with 1.8kW and there will be 4 of them in total. Also new Dyneema line is on the way. A single line will be able to lift around 140kg. The whole system runs on a Duet 2 Wifi controller and ODrive BDLC-driverboards.

    So, what do think? Do you have any questions, feedback, etc.? Do you think this setup could be beneficial for Precious Plastic?


    3rd Extrusion test
    – Extruder set temperature: 248C degrees
    – Extruder working temperature: ~250.7C degrees
    – Environment temperature (A/C): 17C degrees
    – Airpath speed: 80%

    After playing with settings, we decided to apply some glass wool around the nozzle to minimize the amount of bubbles and the cracking that we learned was because the nozzle was not keeping the (heat) temperature. It really helped us on getting better results.
    This time we used the airpath and got best results when it was at 80%. We still didn’t use the spooler, just some pliers and hands to pull it out so diameter was not consistent all the time.

    We also did our first test with the 3D printer, just to see if it was possible to print with it, as you can see in the video the quality of the printing was not good. We also started printing a test cube (I lost the picture somehow =( ), it was printing fine but I had to stop it at 10% since the filament diameter was not consistent and would affect printing anyway.

    To be continued…


    2nd Extrusion test
    Settings: Extruder temp 245C degrees

    After shredding the PET plastic flakes twice we realized they were still bigger than the max. size recommended (1/8”) for the EX2 extruder so we decided to use a blender.

    After using the blender the extruder was jam free, the problem now was that first we set up the extruder temperature at 225C and the filament that was coming out of the nozzle solidified as soon as it came out and it was cracking just by touching it, it was not malleable at all.

    After increasing the temperature to 245C degrees we got our first -kind of- filament as shown in the picture. At this point we still didn’t use the airpath or the spooler, we were just testing the extruder and pulling out the filament by hand (with pliers actually), this is why we were not able to keep the diameter.

    To be continued…


    Hi again and happy holidays!

    We’re still working on making filament from PET bottles (we won’t be working with HDPE for now). We’re currently working with Filabot equipment (Filabot EX2, Airpath and spooler) and have performed some tests that I’ll be sharing with you guys. We’re still trying to get our filament out with no bubbles and to be able to 3D print with it with good results.

    If you guys have any suggestions or comments please feel free to do so!

    1st Extrusion test
    The settings used for our 1st extrusion test were as follows:
    – Extruder temperature: 225C degrees
    – Environment temperature: 16C degrees
    – Nozzle diameter: 1.75mm

    During the first attempt we realized most of the shredded flakes were really big (more than 1/8” as the maximum recommended for the EX2 extruder)  and the extruder got jammed so we decided to re-shred the shredded plastic.

    We also realized the filament coming out from the extruder still had some of the cleaning material that comes with it so this is why it was a bit white. Unfortunately, the shredder used is an old one and doesn’t have multiple blades, so the milled plastic ends up kind of big by only shredding it once.

    To be continued…


    I am impressed by the whole concept. However, after looking at commercial grade plastic recycling machinery, I realize there are a lot of steps that are required, cleaning, selecting, washing, label-removing etc. Specifically washing cause a lot of pollution. I am wondering what kind of cleaning requirements are for each output filament?


    I am a free lance graphic designer and have working alot with PVC and Melinex materials. Recently I have come across alot of damaged PVC and Melinex materials I have at my disposal and thinking of the best way to recycle them.

    With the increasing rate in the use of 3D printing, I then went online to find out how to make my own filaments out of PVC and Melinex materials. I want to find out if it is possible to make a plastic filament out of PVC and Melinex materials and if it is possible, can you please show to get is down. I hope to hear from you soon, Thank you and keep with the good works. best regards


    Hi everyone,

    This may not be feasible, but why not combine two methods and try this:

    1. 3D print the screw with Carbon Fiber filament.
    2. Calculate the length required if you were to epoxy a strip of steel to the working edge of the screw.
    3. Calculate the taper of the width required to match the screw.
    4. Cut said strip of steel with sufficient length and width.
    5. Scuff the surface of the steel that will face the screw, finish and polish the working side.
    6. Bend the steel around the screw to pre-form and ensure accuracy.
    7. Epoxy the steel strip to the screw.
    8. Allow to cure.
    9. Test and document the results.
    10. Report back here with the outcome.

    I may have left something out, but you get the general idea.

    Best regards,

    In reply to: Heat press machine


    Thanks for starting up this thread @adzie23 I’ve recently purchased a press to try and make some sheets. Welcome to the family Percy Press 😁👍

    I’ve left my Instagram account here too so people can see what else i’ve been making from recycled materials and i’ll post updates in this thread too if thats ok.



    I don’t have one of these but it looks like they use sticks (fairly expensive) rather than thin continuous filament, almost like hot glue guns. You may even be able to injection mold these which could be done fairly cheaply. I would guess that a child care or afterschool program that uses these could recycle a lot of those artistic creations.


    The filament for 3D pens are the same of 3d printers… I think that the problem is keep uniform thickness…


    Thanks for your interest in building my machine. I have exams this January so I-m focussing on that now.
    Regarding your project I think it is a lot of time, work and money to build all the setup with the shredder, injection, extruder… I was in the same situation and I ended focussing on one of them. I think precious plastic extruder is a good extruder, as I know from the video, for filament extrusion I see they need a filter, and a breaking plate for the plastic {maybe they have my data is really outdated} I Believe it is necessary because you want laminar flow in the nozzle. Depends on what you want to do, what are your expectations, speed, accuracy… If it the first prototype I would go from something simple to something more complex. Check some books about extrusion.
    Good luck with your project.


    When will the plans be available. For my STEM 2 engineering project I am building the shredder, injection, and an extruder machine that will create new 3D filament. I would love to build your design but I would need to start it very soon in order to finish. Do you think I should do something like this instead so that I will be able to finish on time https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j85TPjYRezI?


    The kids have a 3Doodler 3D pen and heard that some people are making their own filament for 3D pens.  Each brand is a little different, anyone making filament for the 3Doodler pen? What’s the best way to go about this?



    I’m no longer after an extruder as i’ve moved  on from trying to make filament. I do currently have a garden shredder which uses a disc with sharp metal blades on it but it only has one speed and its not good enough for what i’m trying to do. I really need a PP shredder with the teeth style blades.

    In reply to: Filament maker Beta


    I’d really like to know what is the largest diameter of filament which an extruder like this could possibly make in PET. Could it go to 10mm maybe?

    If so, what would be the radius it would bend to ? In other words, how big would the spool need to be?

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