This topic contains 18 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by Anonymous 3 weeks ago.
i’m building an injection machine. I’m struggling with the electronic box, I made all the wire connections, it does not work, the PID flashes, the light comes on. after i did all the connnections, I don’t exactly know which of the wires are going to the wall outlet and also what to do with the ground wire. I’m guessing right now and i don’t want to do that. PLEASE HELP ME FIGURE IT OUT.
The ground wire needs to be safely connected to your injection machine, means to any metal part which a human could accidentally (or not) touch. If you don’t ground your machine, if ever you have a problem with your ac-cabling you have the risk of electrocution, and you want to avoid that.
Other than that, there is the schema of the cabling in the build-folder.
Thanks for the replies, I really appreciate your help.
ok I am working from that schéma, is there any other schéma more details to someone like myself, meaning dummy proof. I’m trying hard to get this to work but no luck so far.
I’m building a wooden box for the electronic, so how to ground it ?
and also from the circuit breaker on top of the schéma what are the wires that goes in the wall outlet?
thank you in advance
The blue goes to neutral, the red to live/phase and the green/yellow goes earth/ground .
Wall outlet :
one hole of your outlet == Blue
the other hole == Red
earth == yellow/green which goes to all metalparts of your machine.
@pacojazz, if you still need help, I still have footage and files to complete the PP instructions.
here you go, and sorry, this is confusing for many people, “Precious Plastic, plastic recycling cheap and for everybody”. I am also not aware of any electrician fees in the material bills nor that everybody is paying for one, so let’s stick to the main narrative.
things to consider when working with AC :
– make sure you’re not touching any exposed wire – use gloves if you can
– go baby steps – be VERY careful and patient and slow !!! Use a power splitter with switch to test your circuit, step by step. As long there are no explosions, proceed.
– make sure you’re not bare feet or naked or sweaty
– ground the machine first (connect yellow/green cable to the frame)
– never have one of the power wires (brown / blue) in both hands (this is where the power goes through your chest and it can get ugly. But if you do, you will get a shock and luckily the body reacts so strong that you throw the cable away automatically. This won’t work if you stand with bare feet in a badly wired building
– you always can swap brown for blue, AC is alternating power so there is no polarity as for DC power (+/-)
@sonic, here the link to the source diagram – feel free to edit.
damn, I forgot something important about all this :
– make really good cable connections ! If you see a anything you can improve, just do it. As test, pull the cables to see whether they slip out. Especially the connections to the SSR and PID. Also, solder some flux on the cables ! This makes sure they don’t get loose over time and slip out again.
I am sure the others here can point to some cool youtube videos wiring power cables in general 🙂
thank you so much i made this video before i see this schematic u sent. Check it out, i need to know how to ground the cables from the heater. Check it out.
You don’t need to ground each bandheater. You need to ground the chassis at some (one) point. As everything of this machine is metal, each part will be grounded. But verify this with a multimeter.
And don’t put solder on your cables, we don’t do this anymore since decades. Use crimpconnectors.
Also, you’re right with the two cables to connect to your wall outlet, the one with the fuse, the other one on the right and ground.
The fuse is a fuse and not a lamp! Means a device which will protect from pulling to much current from the outlet. (In case of a shortcircuit for example.)
AND PLEASE PLEASE, don’t take the switch in your hands like that after plugging it into AC, this is very dangerous. You don’t even need to be naked or sweaty to get electrised.
@PPME Why solder? What is that supposed to do?
yeah, I should have say that a little more explicit : solder the connectors on the wire because you can just sleep way better knowing that you did your best !!!
In 50% of the case cable slip out of cheaper connectors, and about 20% in better quality connectors as well, even though the connectors match the wire sizes, it’s still kinda Russian roulette. I know that In countries (even here in Espanistan) with high humidity the party with people dancing bare feet can go extreme wild if the someone knocks down the injector – among a few million other possibilities – mostly it’s best to assume the worst cases with this kind of machinery.
If you crimp correctly, the cable doesn’t slip out, it’s a reliable connection. It’s done for! So when you are talking about russian roulette with 50% of success, i don’t want to know how you crimp.
sure, that’s why I mentioned SENEGAL but also ‘better quality’ and apparently but not explicit enough : ‘after reasonable testing’, apparently you’ve got better crimps up there in France or we all have left hands only down here 😉 Here we have to go to a special shop pay around 60% more than elsewhere in the EU for better connectors. I wonder how this is in Senegal.
btw. @sonik, since you have a lot of spare time, did you managed to update the diagram ? I think I left there a mistake : the switch should before the fuse, no ?
So this is unfair, i just wanted to reply to PPME and he is not there anymore. What a pity. Maybe @occupypp can pass the message. Actually, in some very rare cases you can use tin on your cables. I just wanted to say that you are not completely wrong.
Btw, How is the weather in turkey ?
Wheather in Turkey ? Bloody as in Catalona right now – it’s raining rubber bullets – people lost their eyes – for the comfort of the west.
Kudos on the tin ! Rarely I do this but that might be good indeed in some cases.
Btw. I noticed a strange shape on my stripper – seemed to be for crimping – didn’t know and so I tried: yeah, it’s definitely better than the brutal plier tool smashing – still, I feel better having all soldered up.
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