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Precious Plastic Sartrouville

This topic contains 49 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by  MJC des 4 Bornes 2 years ago.

Nicolas imuh

Precious Plastic Sartrouville

18/05/2018 at 16:48

Hello everyone; first of all sorry for the re-post of some of the photos you will see on this thread; indeed i have been poking here & there putting some photos & designs, but hadn’t created a “real” thread yet; Here it goes !

It has now been a bit more than a month now that my crew (i own a business in events organization since many years) and myself have started thinking hard on what we could do with plastic waste. The first axe we explored was the plastic differenciation. We emptied all the trashbags that were ready to be picked up and sorted the plastic trash by type in seperated boxes (which are made out of PS…)

(EDIT : Photo uploads NOT WORKING)  :((
(EDIT EDIT : Photo uploads WORKS AGAIN, YAAAY !! )

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12/11/2018 at 16:09

and here is a little update of our planters’ (made out of recycled plastic obviously :p) production 😀

06/06/2018 at 18:23

Here a photo took 2 days ago, showing the different types of rendering with the hexa mould 🙂

08/06/2018 at 21:42

hey all; didn’t have enough PET to do a full compression; so i was able to take photos showing the colour change of PET while getting back to solid form

04/06/2018 at 16:45

hey @camento !
here are the photos as promised; as you can see the system isn’t very sophisticated yet !

to answer your last question : i don’t have extrusion machine or injection machine so i’m not the best person to answer you. But since you need to preheat the PET in order to dehydrate it, i think only compression is doable while maintaining (more or less) the PET properties.
But since it’s the only (from the big 6) plastic which needs some preheat, you can recycle other types much easier (i suppose) with extrusion & injection.

Hope i answered u well
Peace !

Photo #1 : oven + compression chamber
photo #2 : heat resistant gloves (which are starting to plastify, need to change them), gas mask
photo #3 one of the teflon coated dishes i use to make the plastic melt, and MUCH needed spoons :p
photo #4 one of the wooden moulds we use

18/05/2018 at 16:57

We were GREATLY inspired by the hexa product (from the PP download kit) but wanted to go a bit further in the product–assembly possibilities. A hexagone being 6 equilateral triangles put together ; we reproduced the hexa in 10cm side ; a 10cm side equilateral triangle and a 10cm side 2/3 hexagone. All those figures match together (ie example in image)

And here are our first nicely molded recycled products (Transparent PS ; Black PS ; PET)

Will keep you posted on the advancement of our production !!!

Lots of love


25/07/2019 at 09:43

Hello everyone,

Here is a little update to explain to you guys a new technique we discovered.

The output product is hollow tube made out of LDPE pallet wrap.


Needed material :
– 1 plancha
– heat protection gloves
– LDPE Pallet wrap (seperated into thin layers)
– a cylindric metal bar (cut it so that it’s length is smaller than the plancha length)
– 1 heatgun (optionnal)

Process :
– Put plancha to heat (not maximum temperature as it will more likely degrade the LDPE)
– Add 1 layer of LDPE ( try cutting the LDPE so it fits the plancha’s inner dimensions)
– once 1rst layer is melted, use gloves to reagglomerate into a little ball and put it aside on the plancha
– put a 2nd layer and repeat reagglomeration, adding it with the 1rst layer
– put a 3rd layer and repeat reagglomeration, adding it with the 1rst  & 2nd layers.
– put the “ball” in the middle of the plancha and start rolling it with your hands in order for the “ball” to gain more and more length.
– Once you have a “more or less” cylinder, reposition it in the middle of the plancha.

– Use the metal cylindric bar to flatten (the more you can) the molten plastic as if it was a rolling pin
– As you will continue rolling the metal bar; it’s temperature will rise and the molten plastic will start to stick to the bar.
– You want to continue that process until all the molten plastic is around the metal bar. If there are gaps to be filled, you can always add a bit of LDPE to melt and fill thesaid gaps with the same rolling technique.

the step is quite an issue, because LDPE warps around the metal bar when colling down. There are 2 straightforward possibilites to unmould the hollow tube.

– The easiest way is to cut a straight line through the hollow tube and “open” it up slightly so it detaches itself from the bar. This then requires to use a heatgun to refuse the tube.
– Another way to do it (only works if the metal tube you used is hollow too) is to use the heatgun, and make the heat go through the metal hollow bar. This will heat up the plastic which is in contact with the metal bar. You then only need a lot of strength to pull it out. Careful though, if you heat it too much, it’s not only the ID of the plastic hollow tube which will melt but ALL the plastic tube, meaning you won’t be able to pulling without wrecking everything :p

i hope you can guess what was our process for the last photo 🙂


Cheers !

31/05/2018 at 18:42

And some more tested was done also on PS Cristal; i used the same transparent PS Cristal sourced from disposable cups & added around 1/5 in volume of disposable pink (outside) and white (inside) coffee cups

It maintained its transparency !! Which leads me to think my lamp’s hexa’s might have been a bit overcooked. The difference in the process here was mainly that i did not wait for the plastic to be totally melted (very partially melted and the reste VERY soft) where as on my lamp’s hexas i had waited for all the plastic to be totally melted.


More transparency & plastic properties maintained & less fumes woohooo !
(sorry for the photo; last hexa on the photos wasn’t post-proded (any tips btw to post-prod PS Cristal?)
will keep you posted !
peace, nick

31/05/2018 at 18:36

Hey guys !
So i continued some experimenting, here are the 2 hexas which were created using LDPE bags (shopping bags which were stacked beneath my kitchen sink for 2 years) and the result is astonishing ! i just love how the colours blend + the resistance of the product.. i mean you can throw it on the ground it won’t break for a bit, only downside is i didn’t figure yet how post-prod work can be down on LDPE 🙁

18/05/2018 at 16:55

We then created 3 molds with « angled ? » aluminum, wood & baking paper (following this figure).

Thanks to french member @lamrock for the design of the mould 🙂

18/05/2018 at 16:54

Though it felt amazing for us ; we realized that the grease was quite ennoying to take off of our product, and we had very little control on the products’ thickness which wasn’t homogenous.

We tried the same technique with different metal plattery i own, different greasing systems (when you can’t unmould your product because it’s stuck, good luck to get it off… !)



As for now, i can say that baking paper and teflon (also silicone but has cons) are what we find best suited to unmould or to clean off melted platic rests.


We then had a long reflexion on how we could create an economy around plastic recycling here in France and we came to the conclusion that making a paving system would be awesome. So we created the « compression chamber » with wood & a car creek (it broke on the 2nd use so we reinforced it)

02/06/2018 at 16:28

Hey guys just bringing up a personnal big update :

the preheat for PET is a BIG thing !! around 70-80°C for at least 20min for it to dehydrate

I finally managed to make it melt + press ! Unfortunately, my mould requires so much plastic that i can’t fill it up with 1 melting process in the oven. My oven + dish i use to make it melt isn’t big enough to put the required plastic in one time (around 15 1,5L bottles are required)
I went to see a friend today who owns a cooking material shop and got some material to upgrade my setup; hopefully i’ll be able to do a nicely recycled fullyshaped hexa very soon!
(tomorrow i’ll try to make a DYI aluminum foundry with @carlito ; hope it works out !)

23/05/2018 at 19:15

So we continued are experimenting today and took a try at LDPE bags; i was really curious to see how the compression would work out because of the stickiness of the melted LDPE

Also; we came up with an interesting technique for the LDPE melting.


If your LDPE is in contact too long with the metal surface it is melting on; it will start to burn (don’t know why though..) Our solution for that was the following: once the first batch is melted, unstick it and put in on your 2nd batch before putting back to melt. Repeat the process until you get to the “enrobage state”, which is the last layer to be melted. You can use the plastic which usually surround 6 (or more) bottle packs. This process will maintain (more or less) the desing which was printed there.



We also managed to get enough bottle caps (more than 100 were used :p) to give them a try in the mold; it is the most colourful product we managed to get!!

30/05/2019 at 08:29


I also like the idea of an (almost) no investment way to start.

Safety gear and safety instruction, starters tutorial, (old) oven and go go go.

I’m still gathering information, so i don’t have much to tell yet, but I will also start a ‘journal’ soon, starting with a tutorial on how and why to keep a journal on PP (link t.b.a. 🙂 )

The forum has a very limited structure, which would just mean we should use it in a smarter way!


I wonder: “i would have changed the name of the topic…  …but i can’t cuz name of topic links to the url”. This is indeed a good observation as the links might stop working, but I will test and check. You CAN change the name, so links SHOULD keep working. I think only the name changes, not the link, but let’s not find out I’m wrong by experimenting on an active topic 😉

16/04/2019 at 15:33

Hello everyone !
Sorry for the long time since i have given you guys an update on what’s going on on our side ^^

So after having experimented manual extrusion we realized that we could explore a bit the couloring side recycling.

The main plastic product we use is pallet wrap, which is LDPE and can be transparent or black. The transparency is due to lack of pigmentation (and thickness being very small), it becomes white once melted (and therefore much more thick as when it was just a sheet)
Understanding that principle we started adding bottle caps to the process. Once all is melted, you can “easily”(need heat-resistant gloves though) mix it with your hands. The more you will mix and the more the colour will be homogeneously blended. The more you add coloured caps (of the same colour), the darker your color will be, the less the brighter. You can also mix colours as you would with paint. I managed to create a nice homogeneous purple mixing red and blue together ! 😀
The first problem you may encouter while trying out that process is that the plastic will stick to your gloves. You should wait a little bit for it too cool down (right before mixing) so that the most exterior layers of the melted plastic is already hardened and therefore not sticky.



Then lastly with help of Clemence which i met through PP map (thank uuu!) we tried out silicone moulds;
Why silicone ? Isn’t it going to melt ? No ! If you read the PP Manual in the kit, you should know that there are 2 big families of plastics; thermoplastics (which melt at right temperature), and thermosets which can only take shape once. The temperature of melted plastic won’t affect it ! So idea is the following :
Create an item (sculpture, 3Dprint) or just any type of objects :p
Take the impression of it with silicone
Create a casing
Ready to use as a mould !


Here is a little rhino we made 😀

Our extrusion machine is almost ready, just need to find someone to help out with the last electrical & electronics parts 🙁

Cheers !

ps : i am sorry for the name of the original post, i didn’t know at that time that other french projects were launched; so it’s PP Sartrouville 😀
u can check us out of FB or insta

09/01/2019 at 17:14

We had the pleasure to greet Adèle from PreciousPlastic Shanghai couple days ago; a lot of intel sharing; and she gave us the inspiration for the making of this stool !

The wooden legs are just “planted” in the melted plastic as soon as taken out of the oven, then let to solidify by cooling. Unmoulding is super easy because of the dish being teflon-coated and polyethylene warping quite while cooling down.

(Plastic used is polyethylene; LDPE pallet wrap & HDPE bottle caps)

29/11/2018 at 18:46

last but not least (for today :p)

we started testing fusing different LDPE products together, using a heat gun


Results are VERY satisfying !!

12/11/2018 at 15:58

Hello @edwardmartinhill !
Thanks for your interest ! I baught the mould already laser cut, and indeed dimensions are not specified. I measured out mine once assembled and here are the following dimensions

So the mould is in 2 parts, hope the quickly edited photos will help you out 🙂

24/10/2018 at 14:27

Hello everyone; wow time goes by so quickly, already 4 months since my last update !
First things first, we finally managed to build the schredder !!! *HURRAY* (thanks to the help of a precious handyman!) unfortunately, it didn’t last long as the jawcoupler broke when trying to schred a PET bottle (waiting for a 500N/m coupler to arrive and make the beast work again !)
here is a mini video of it running for a couple secs :p
We also purchased through Precious Plastic official the laser cut parts for the compression bowl mould and assembled/welded it !
It is only when u start using it that you realize the importance of finishing the mould, as it will lesser the post-production work on the moulded product.
Eventhough are mould wasn’t perfect we started trying it out and the umoulading was VERY difficult; so we used this magical unmoulading wax and here is the result !
Julieta (who i work with) had the nice idea to use them as little planters
(eventhough the plastic used in the first place is foodsafe _plastic HDPE caps_ food contact product is in my opinion a no-go; cuz of the different additives and all; it feels too risky..)
I promise @brendonscrimgeour i will be doing a video very VERY soon! Once the mould is ready ready ready ! (already started to fill out the “make a video” template from the download kit)

02/06/2018 at 16:40

hey @camento !
Sorry to disappoint you but i don’t have ANY of the machines yet 🙁
I just use an oven to make the plastic melt in an antiadhesive dish, the rest is hand made; a compression chamber using a car creek and moulds are made out of wood (except lower part which blocks the plastic’s form which is metal).

The metal and and the wood of the mould are both protected with cooking paper cut out as a patron to fit well the forms (which most of the time turns out as single use 🙁 ) i will post photos tomorrow to recap my equipment
peace !

29/05/2018 at 07:10

Thanks @brendonscrimgeour !

The dimensions of the hexa shapes are : 10cm per side & around 11mm thick
Same dimensions for the triangles : 10cm per side & around 11mm thick

There wasn’t any LDPE bags used in this process (didn’t manage to get a translucent yet with LDPE). The hexas are made out of PS Cristal & the triangles in PET

210°C-220°C for PS
180°C-200°C for PET

Cheers !

28/05/2018 at 22:53

little update to the lamp 🙂

so the drill managed to go through the PET triangles, so I added them in the structure. also used some metal wire (more solid then the LLDPE string; but i’m thinking to give a system like this _ https://plasticbottlecutter.com/ _ a try and maybe use PET string to attach the different pieces)

19/05/2018 at 08:45

Hey @brendonscrimgeour !
Thanks for the reply !!
Indeed, we are all having fun with the project !!

For the greasing options; the molds we intially used had many curves and as a fact didn’t pop out; we ruined a couple molds because of that.

Now, our molds being mostly made of wood (plastic goes through the veins) the only good solution is baking paper
As for the plastic melting; we use “teflon” bowls or platters; where plastic detaches amazingly quick and with no struggle


18/05/2018 at 22:43

hey Nick

your team sounds like they’re having fun!!
for your greasing options – have you tried with nothing yet? (no baking paper or anything)
also let your mould cool down naturally (may take an hour or 2) and should pop right out.

keep it up!!

18/05/2018 at 16:53

We started manually « schredding » our different types of plastic with _mainly_ cisors in order to start some compression molding tests. As a mold ; we used some aluminum plattery which stacks quite thinly. The process was the following ; butter interior of lower part mold, insert schredded/cut plastic (PS for our first try), put in oven (210°C) for the plastic to melt, butter exterior of the upper part mold. Get out the lower mold of the oven once plastic is melted and apply pressure with upper part mold for around a minute or so ; release pressure ; put in water, wait 30 sec then unmold.

Here is our first compression :

18/05/2018 at 16:51

more photos

29/05/2019 at 10:43

hey @donald !

Thanks for your feedback ! i was not aware there were other french initiatives when i created the post, i would have changed the name of the topic to pp-sartrouville which is the name of my workshop, but i can’t cuz name of topic links to the url (?)

Indeed, most of the research and experiments were done without PP machines, i think it is very important to understand how different plastics “work” in order to utilize the PP machines at their best (and optionnally understand how to not brake the machines ie: extrusion machine’s motor being turned on before the plastic in the “temp zone” is not melted :p)

Will try to continue this as a journal to open new techniques and possibilities through plastic recycling !

Cheers !

09/01/2019 at 17:21

We then found a hallow square tube; we used it as a mould and process is following;

Put in teflon coated dish to melt.

Once melted, take dish out (work with triple layer gloves) and make a ball out of the melted plastic;
Twist it, it will start getting pulled by gravity quite quickly;
Aim for the mould and fill it
Put aside to cool/solidify
Mould being cold + warping of LDPE make unmoulding VERY easy

Used the result product as a foot for our stool; technique to connect different elements is only fusion by heat, with a heatgun.

100%recycled LDPE

29/11/2018 at 18:41

a couple weeks went by and we continued ou tests !

we reinforced the hexa, 2/3 hexa & triangle moulds with a metal sheet and have build a new (& reinforced) version of our compression chamber (also added a little element which helps us perfectly & easily center the mould in the compression system)

30/10/2018 at 13:19

mould mould mould, can’t stop the frenzy !

02/06/2018 at 16:34

I see. thank you sir :). another question if I may. what are your specific model/name of electronics you use (ie. heat controller, motor*?, etc)? much better if there is a picture so I can distinguish it from others. hehe

sorry I have so many questions…

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