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In reply to: REX C100 wiring

starter
12/12/2019 at 16:58
0

Having tried another SSR, I am having the same issue. the indicator LED for both SSR’s is on, so it looks like it’s getting power and a signal to turn on?

In reply to: REX C100 wiring

starter
12/12/2019 at 15:35
0

They are 200W bandheaters, so 600W together? Using a cheap SSR (states 40A) and I had wondered whether I was drawing too much current but the current draw of all three bandheaters together at 230V would only be 2.6A I think? I have a very basic understanding of electronics so forgive me if my calcs are way off!

Will try and swap the connections to see if its the SSR or PID maybe – great tip.

Thanks again folks! Hope I can get this up and running.

In reply to: REX C100 wiring

starter
12/12/2019 at 11:16
0

Thanks for the replies – to clarify, I have two REX c100’s (or two PID’s), each with a thermocouple and four heating elements total. the front heating element is connected to to 1 PID and the other 3 heating elements are connected to the other PID.

I had extra thermocouples and had wondered whether the PID could take a combined reading of all three heating elements but I will keep it simple and just connect 1. Therefore I have the following:

– PID connected to 1 heating element & 1 thermocouple
– PID connected to 3 heating elements & 1 thermocouple

The first works but the PID connected to three heating elements does not. Both wired exactly the same with the heating elements wired in parallel. Have uploaded an image of the PIDs – you can see the lower one is climbing (connected to one heating element) whilst the second can read temperature but does not heat the element.

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In reply to: Making a buoy mould

starter
24/07/2019 at 17:29
0

You can get rotomould laser cut kits which are often used for thermosetting plastics. If you have a metal mould (assuming you can heat it correctly) you might be able to retrofit the mould to a kit like this:

https://www.instructables.com/id/Rotomoldeadora/

starter
24/07/2019 at 12:43
1

solved: Just used two nuts on the end of each bolt to create an old school lock nut. Used that to then slacken the other nut, allowing me to adjust the bearing position 🙂 Hopefully that might help anyone else stuck in the future

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starter
24/07/2019 at 11:57
0

I thought this was the standard version? It’s the standard files – and trying to follow Dave’s video for the assembly, but he appears to somehow tighten the bearing with everything else assembled and there just doesn’t seem to be the access to hold onto the bolt head to do that. Only option I can see is as you say. I have been assembling, finding where it clashes and marking the outside frame to where I think the bearing should be moved to, to get clean movement.

What version have you assembled out of interest?

Thanks for the help!

starter
24/07/2019 at 10:45
0

Thanks for linking to this thread – some interesting suggestions in here but I can’t see anything about how everyone is tightening the bearing?

Are people welding the bolt to the plate so you can simply tighten a nut without having to hold the bolt? I can’t see how if leaving the bearings until the end, you can get access to the bolt heads to tighten the nuts?

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