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I think it would be a good start to start harvesting it where it grows naturally, instead of trying to eradicate it as a weed.
Or to start using it as a cover on dirty water (like human waste water (which it also filters)).
In my ongoing experiment I found it’s quick to cover any surface area, but does not really grow any thicker from there.
It should form a layer of at least 1 inch to be useful as a crop (one harvest after 10 weeks was not much more than a spoonfull (see picture). In the same time I harvested at least bucket of sprouts from a similar surface area.
Duckweed seems to like heat and ‘rain’ (oxygenating the water by spraying, adding an aquarium pump had little or no effect).
The comming weeks I’m going to be ‘overfeeding’ it, to see if this is a factor. I think it does, as in nature it also seems to like ‘dirty’ water.
And to answer the obvious question: Yes I did eat it (after heating), and yes, it tastes kind of like spinach (after only being fed tapwater and kelp/seaweed-extract).
Deze topic gaat binnenkort verhuizen naar een eigen Nederlandstalig platform (binnen de PP-gemeenschap uiteraard).
PM me als je nu al meer wilt weten 😉
I agree on the glue, this would only make sense outside of a frame.
The PoC test i did was in front of my window (inside) with simple stacks of opened cans and I did get a hot air flow, but I also liked having the sunlight in my room, so I tore it down again 😉
Don’t know why they use water in the shown setup, but I could see it working as a desalinator/grey water purification system…
Cans have a similar problem and are mostly glued and framed.
I did some tests once, and cans can stand the heat for solarcollection, but solar heating plastic is a bad idea, unless you use the collector to feed an heat exchanger.
There’s also the UV-degradation, but that’s solved by spraypainting them black.
The OneArmy Alpha site has a nice ‘howto’:
Often the ink isn’t the problem, but the coating protecting it is.
As far as I can see pvc cards are first coated, and the information is printed on this coating, especially if they all are ‘custom’ cards.
There are also printing techniques using UV-inkts, but those are similar to the way cans are printed.
If all else fails, you could ‘black-out’ the cards, instead of ‘blanking them’ and reprint them using a ‘white ink’ printing technique.
I don’t have any acetone (or spent gift cards) or I would have run a test like this:
But maybe you already have?
Cans are always first ‘pressure cooked’ to break the coating, but maybe lightly sanding the card before trying the accetone would be enough.
But please also tell me/the community more about your can melting setup.
It could be easy to transform it into a moulding setup, using e.g. green sand (some info in the Plaster of Paris moulds – topic).
Being able to create decent alluminium moulds would be of great value within the community…
Do they contain any RFID? (probably not)
I also see a ‘privacy’ concern, so upcycling them ‘as is’ is not an option (ruling out the guitar picks 😉 )
Melting the stuff might be a very bad idea, but maybe there’s an (easy) way to ‘blank’ them. For reuse as gift/badge card with a new print, or to be able to reshape them, without the privacy concerns.
Interesting challenge, I’ll do some creative thinking/research and look forward to any other feedback from the community.
I agree with @s2019 , Heatwelding might be the finishing touch on this kind of join.
These kind of joins come from green woodworking which is dependent on the fresh wood to ‘shrink’ as it dries out.
Short of plastic doing the same, some extra ‘convincing’ will be needed to keep the join steady.
Other joineries are also good options, but as the question was about this kind of joinery, my answers is limited to ‘yes, but weld’.
On a side note:
I know it’s not ‘fumes’, but it is a harmfull matter stream into which you might have an insight.
Could the microplastics created by washing the plastic be filtered out of the waste water using an sand filtration system?
This sand, once spend, could then be used to make bricks…
Hi Jason @dukeoflife
Filament might indeed not be the right way to start, but there are a lot of alternatives.
I always recommend the Precious Plastic Sartrouville topic, as it is basically a tutorial in how to start with plastic.
Start by collection, cleaning and sorting to get a good overview of the materials you’ll have readilly available, and then look around for the kind of product you could sell where you live.
All the details in between supply and demand you can find on this forum.
And please also look on the map, and contact everybody near you. Maybe just collecting and sorting is all you need to do to help your local economy (incl. yourself).
I for one think that ‘melting your cans’ into plastic moulds might be just what your local community needs. The plastic they could get as a bonus 😉
Most important thing is to be able to proof any source you use is beyond suspicion.
Having an ISO9001 just proofs you already are doing this, but the process is the same: be selective in your (trackable) source material, use clean machines (and people) and test, test, test your output (short version).
Or in one sentence: ‘If it were easy, everybody would be doing it’…
True, you could recycle the WPC, but not the ‘ingredients’, like you could do with stone paper or sand bricks.
A trivial detail perhaps, but an important one.
And in Europe a landfill might indeed be a sollution, but why then is plastic a problem?
O, yeah, it gets burned…
Less or better a chance of this happening once you add wood to the mix?
I think we arrived here on the same accord 🙂
I’m trying to build an Urban Homestead, which in the Netherlands includes a lot of ‘water management’, so root cellars are allas a bit “off topic” for me…
The cannery however has my ears glowing…
Luckilly this community is not just about plastic (see project kamp), but it’s intriging how plastic is often overlooked as a resource, and learning to get the handle on it opens up a lot of possibilities.
Some of the stuff might get very technical, very fast, but this is in fact a good thing, because, well, plastic is a technical substance. The forum is very good at turning ‘can?’s into ‘how!’s…
Just don’t inhale…
Nice overview, I’ll see what I can find to add.
I’m gonna expreiment myself with ‘no budget’ primitive garden tiles, which may not be bricks, but are of similar interest.
Fun fact about these tiles is they only need a ‘smooth’ finish on the top side, so they can be gravity pressed. Bottom is in the soil, so who cares 😉
@pex12 is right, if you would try to recycle the material, you could ignite the wood and end up burning the plastic. A very bad idea.
But does it have to be wood?
Or maybe a better question: What do you want to use the WPC for?
And/or is recycling plastic your goal, or just the frame production?
Might seem odd questions, but knowing more about your target product or intend would make it easier to point you in the right direction.
Just WPC, you’ve got your answer: Wiki on WPCs
Not really interesting for the community.
Want help developing a product inline with recycling/upcycling/economic results:
Please tell us more about your project, aims, and goals, and include pictures, videos, personal stories.
A lot of knowledge here, but all in the spirit of sharing.
Hi Adam @goat
First of all:
has some ideas on how to reinforce the bottle bricks, and a link to a (maybe) useful site.
Please also add your experiments to the topic, sounds like you are doing a lot of fun builds!
If you have slabs of stone lying around, you could always go the stone pizza oven way with the burners to distribute the heat.
Substitute ‘pizza’ for ‘mould’, and you’ll have a video waiting to happen!
Yesterday I also saw this concept:
Kind of hard to explain, but now imaging stacking moulds around a fire, instead of food filled bricks.
Sounds like fun?
Hi James @thejiminoz
After a meeting today a customer wants us to prototype a reusable cup made from recycled PP#5.
Would this be a specific source of recycled PP#5 ?
Most problems with food safety originate from the fact you have no control over the contermination of your source material. If however the source is known, and you can proof it to be safe, you’ll have less problems.
Also, do you already have a design in mind? (photos might help).
Coffee cups come in all sizes, shapes and forms, so somebody might have a mould, but no way to know if it is what you are looking for!
Hi Michal @madtreeme
I’m sorry, but I’m laughing out loud.
Been there, done that, you would not have come this far if you also did not have a sense of humour…
PM me if you want to touch base, I might have some ideas that could help you, even though I’m not CS…
But failing that, please DO bother us with the details.
Every workspace has Kling.ons to deal with…
…and here I was just thinking I could solve world polution by dunking the exhaust pipe into a bucket of water! 😉
Thank you for confirming it’s a valid idea.
@irismongolia so what about the VOC in wet scrubbers?
And I love this follow up question: “and/or what could be the best ‘solution’?”
Even if vinegar would only be a 75% improvement, not everybody can affort £1 an hour gas mask, so knowing this could already make a big difference.