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I’ve done some research after this suggestion and it seems the biggest complaint among affordable shirt transfer presses is that they don’t maintain a very high amount of pressure and are limited to around 15 minutes of use at a time. Plus most sources I have found state that the melting temperature of PET is 500 degrees Fahrenheit (Wikipedia says >482) whereas the shirt presses generally only go up to 480 Fahrenheit. 🤷♂️
I think the biggest issue is that I really don’t know where to look for things. 😐
I’ve been looking into economical heated press solutions, and I was wondering how viable it would be to just combine two domestic electric griddles into a redneck press. The issue is that I can’t seem to find an affordable electric griddle capable of melting PET, which is the kind that I have an abundance of. They all seem to go to about 200-230°C, whereas the temperature needed to melt PET is around 260°C.
I also discovered something called an “oil core skillet” which intrigues me when thinking of its application as a reduced-cost, even heating solution for a heat press. I can’t seem to find any information on the manufacturing process, though. All I see it that it uses a double-lined bottom with a heating source suspended in silicate oil which distributes the heat throughout the metal without creating a hot spot.
Just thinking out loud.
I watched a video with different homemade solutions to removing adhesive labels and the one that I tried works. Just mix vegetable oil and baking soda then apply a little to some adhesive and let it set for 5 minutes then wipe it off.
A much more accurate description of what we do is to remove the label as best as possible, which can sometimes be done cleanly by filling your plastic containers with warm water, then apply the oil and baking soda solution to the adhesive. I usually scrape as much of the paper or plastic labeling off as possible before application so it’s easier to wipe the remnants clean. Using a little soap to remove the oil and baking soda is also advised to remove any oily residue left behind.
I seem to be experiencing a very uncommon problem. One of these single phase air compressor motors I pulled had a rusted bolt going through the top of the compressor fan, apparently holding everything together. Now that it has been removed I would assume I should be able to simply pull it apart. My other motor had a bolt near the bottom I was able to unscrew and the whole thing came off the shaft, but this one seems to be held together by sheer force of will.
Is that other little thing on the top another bolt, or is there anything else I can do to get this thing apart? Has anyone else here experienced something like this?
Yes, that is correct. You can sign up with the same email, and should be able to use the same password, but they are considered two different accounts.
As for the PET, since I started collecting for recycling that has been the single largest quantity of plastic I have received by a large margin. I decided to cut up a gallon sized water jug with a pair of scissors just to see what I was in for. You weren’t kidding about the difficulties. Scissors, shears and even a box cutter could not penetrate the base or the ring. It took nearly an hour for a small amount of plastic in the end. And I’ve been reading topics in the forums to see if there is a more reasonable way to melt at such a high temperature because and oven seems like it would be a huge waste electricity, even for testing.
Great topic you’ve made. Hopefully we all get to learn something from it.
I think you are talking about a triphased engine from an air compressor, I want to have a monophased engine to be able to shred every were, here in France we are a very view to have triphased curent… but I will look there to see what I can get.
The two compressor motors I pulled today are single phase. It turns out that the biggest issue is that the manufacturers misrepresent their operating power. Both are 120v, 15 amp motors but are called “5 HP” (3.72 kW) motors on the compressors themselves. Actually, another small issue is that the cables had to be cut since the power cords were connected to pressure gauges and not directly to the motors.
Actually, a third issue is that it probably sounds like I understood a single thing I just wrote 😅
Nice work. I just ordered some parts from the Bazar myself for €425 (about $490 US) because the folks are in the same state as where I live. My stepdad has a few air compressor motors that we’re going to try out to see how well they’ll perform. It should shred well enough with the exception maybe of thicker plastic.
If you’re looking for a modest upgrade, check locally to see if anyone has a damaged air compressor they wish to discard. Once we’re able to try ours I’ll definitely capture some footage and/or images to post.
Definitely. In one of his YouTube videos, Dave actually said pretty much the same thing. He said he doesn’t want people to have to rely on this one source for their plastic recycling workspaces. It’s the reason that they don’t sell the parts for the machines themselves in the Bazar. Dave had offered to provide a subdomain for the wiki before because of the support for this kind of initiative from the community.
Any of you who are involved in the preservation and collaboration of information regarding this plastic recycling should definitely share anything you come up with in the forums. We would all be happy to see your work come to fruition.
Maybe one day I can quit being useless and actually help 😑
You know, in my short time digging through these forums, I found that there used to be a wiki for all of this, only the person hosting it couldn’t afford to maintain the servers and it all kind of fell through when others tried to offer domains/temporary hosting (or maybe I’m remembering it a little off).
Your site could be the answer to compiling community information that can be easily referenced and discussed for the sake of improvement. Maybe One Army will be the platform we need. Only time will tell.
Where does it actually say 5HP?
One of these actually says it on the nameplate of the motor, but all of the compressors say “5HP” on the top of the compressor itself.
A little research suggests that the “5 HP” rating from the manufacturer comes from the maximum amps drawn for a few seconds before it shuts itself off to keep it from blowing up or tripping a breaker). Basically when the compressor has almost done its job it might need a little boost to reach its maximum pressure output. I don’t really understand this all that well and I’m paraphrasing what I’ve read, idk.
Welp, a quick Google search answered my own question.
Ah, well, gotta start somewhere, I guess.
The weird thing is that two of these say 5 HP and one says 5.5 HP but they all have the same info on the panel. Still turns out decent on the calculator and it’s free so even if it isn’t ideal it will hopefully be good enough to start with.
Do air compressors have a different measure of horsepower or…?
Spent all this time looking for affordable motors locally and online and it turns out my stepfather has two broken air compressors, each with a functional 5HP motor. Now I’ve just got to hope we can figure something out for a proper speed reduction. He thinks he can build a pulley system but I’m also looking into gearboxes. IDK, but at least I’m finally moving forward.
Man, this thread and this tool just saved me in more ways than one. I was just looking at what I thought was a great deal on a “5 HP” motor (“3.72 kw”), but at 320 RPM. If that was accurate I would have to have a 4:1 reduction ratio in order to shred anything without damage to the equipment. Something about it seemed off, though, so I left “power” fields blank, and sure enough, it was a sham. It’s not “5 HP;” it’s .5 HP (a mere 0.372 kw) just as you can barely see in the listing image.
I can’t thank you enough for all of this information, @andyn!
Oh, wow. Is this your output?
It’s absolutely gorgeous.
It seems like the impurities of mixing sand with plastics will limit what you can do with a tile at the end of its life unless you can somehow separate the materials later. That having been said, I’ve watched multiple videos about plastic paver tiles and plastic fencing that suggest they can conceivably last forever, even under harsh conditions.
As for the machines, the ones I’ve seen online look to be pretty much just larger extrusion and heat press machines. You get the mixture out of the extruder and set it into the press in a custom mold, and out comes your tiles/pavers, or extrude the mixture into a fence-like molded beam.
You would need to experiment to see what works for you, but the comments I’ve read suggest that you want to experiment with HDPE (like milk jugs and plastic bottle caps) and river sand mixtures.
So I was actually reading through the thread just now and wanted to point something out
You can buy the sheets of steel in many places, but my favourite is Online metalsSome examples:
The “Stainless Steel” link leads to an aluminum extruded thingy.
Thanks for all of the info regardless.
Here’s a weight loss ad in the Precious Plastic suggestions forum: https://davehakkens.nl/community/forums/topic/take-to-lose-stomach-fat-fast-and/
Currently waiting for the design update that @pporg mentioned in my quotation thread before I consider placing an order. Not so much “waiting” as “unable to commit to ordering right now anyway.”
BBC Steel is significantly cheaper than the prices I was quoted by other companies, so I still appreciate your recommendation. For the current design it looks like the Bazar might have some pre-built ones for even cheaper if you can catch them in-stock, though.
– 1 set: $400.00
– 2 to 9 sets: $275.00 per set, (really good price)
Just got my quotes back from this company and the current price as of April 2019:
– 1 set $450.00
– 2 sets $350 per set
Plus shipping, of course.
Thank you. It’s only been a week (and three quotes) so I guess a little more time couldn’t hurt. I definitely need something imperial though, based on what others in the forums suggest. The price quoted would have been even higher if I hadn’t submitted the community conversion files for the 2.0 design.
As far as the steel, I only went with 304 Stainless because of the suggestion and because I can’t afford any mistakes. If F114 works just as well and for as long I’ll definitely look into it.
Hate to bump an old thread, but I’d just like to say I’m glad I found it. I’ve spent all week trying to get quotes and it’s discouraging. Closest I got so far was eMachineShop which has tried to work with me but has a quoting system which requires you to use their inconvenient online submission form. Currently sitting on a $250 quote for the 3MM parts. Waiting on the rest. Also their system allows you to request metric but converts your request to imperial, which makes me wonder if I should start over with the community conversions. Hate to stop now when the nice lady’s been working with me these last few days. Also waiting on a quote from Alabama.
Here’s hoping for the best.
That’s useful information. Thank you. I just remember the official assembly video saying something about less welding and mentioning the sieve. I would kind of like the convenience involved with an easily removable sieve but eh 🤷♂️
This shredder design is based on the 2.0 version of the shredder, however, all the changes from 2.1/3.0 are fully compatible (new hopper and new sieve design)
This is my biggest fear right here. I’m trying to send the 2.1 designs off to a shop to get the pieces made but the 2.0 design is the de facto so I would have no idea how to easily get these conversions to a shop. Isn’t pretty much the only difference a few holes and one less weld spot? Idk, I’m probably overthinking it.