Forum Replies Created
Are you sure that your PID is correctly parametered? There are a lot of youtube videos on this: eg: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HM8Pc-LWZJU&ab_channel=quailfarm
And still you are using a 400V bandheater on 230V mains!
Sorry if i added confusion but i refered to the photo above. This PID clearly outputs DC on 4 and 5.
Still, having photos of your setup would be best.
The quote you did at 22:38 is a bit unclear. Taking the things from the beginning:
You have three items, a PID, an SSR and the heater. And an AC-Power of course (400V/220V, we will see that later).
The PID is connected to AC-Power, otherwise it won’t start. So far so good.
Then, you connect your temperature sonde to 9 and 10 (always in regard to the photo above). Okay. If you put AC on your PID, you should read on the PV-side the ambient roomtemperature. Now touch the sensor with your hands, the PV Value should move up until 30 – 35° C. Does this happen? If yes move on to the SSR.
Connect the input of the SSR (there where its probably say something like 3 – 24V DC) to the output (4+5) of the PID. + and – needs to be respected. Now, when you put your PV Value to higher than roomtemperature, the LED on the SSR should light up. Is this the case? If not, your PID is maybe bad. (Measure to be sure if you can, it should output some DC-Voltage)
If yes, plug your heater to the output of the SSR.
If yes, connect the neutral of mains (AC) directly to one connection of the heater. Then, connect the phase of mains (AC) to one side of the output of the SSR and connect the other out of the SSR to the other connection of the band heater. The SSR acts like a switch, open or closed, it does not output phase(live) and neutral.
Put the PV Value to a value much higher than roomtemperature and the heatband should start to heat. If not, maybe the trouble is your 400V Heaters.
First question, how do you send 400V to the band heaters?
Second question, can you measure on the outputs of the PID (4 and 5 in the case of the photo) when it is supposed to heat, which means you set the value to more than the ambient temperature.
Photos of your setup could be helpful.
On the PID on the photo above you would connect the input of the SSR to Connector 4 (+) and 5 (-). As it’s stated in the schematics of the machine.
Another thing, you said in your first post that the heatband is 400V, are you sure about that?
If you connect your SSR to a dc power supply, this one stays on as long as the dc is connected. How do you want that the PID shuts off the SSR if it is not connected to the control input of the PID?
“I noticed that when ever the PV exceeds or nearly exceeds the SV, the Output led goes off but the SSR light remains static.” This is the expected behaviour the way how you connected the SSR.
“I am using a 12V DC adapter as external power source to power the SSR since the PID model I am using doesn’t power the PID.” You probably wanted to say “doesn’t power the SSR”. In this case, whats the point to have a PID when it doesn’t control the SSR?
An SSR doesn’t need to be powered, if you want that it closes the contacts, you apply an input-voltage, if you want the contacts to be open, you take off the input-voltage.
Salut, tu es ou en Bretagne? On a fait faire des pieces en decoupe laser a Lamballe chez TFE, mais on a commandé 10 kits a l’époque, ça revenais a 120 h.t. le kit.
Moi je suis entre St.Brieuc et Lamballe, i tu n’est pas loin, on pourra se voir et parler un peu. Même si tu a un peu de matière première, il y a moyen de shreddé chez moi. Ca fait plaisir de voir des gens aussi jeune.
Connais tu le discord PP-France?
If your heaters are not dead yet, you could put 2 in series, then you can use them on 220 volts. Just in case you don’t want to wait.
It’s hard to see on the photo, but is your cabling correct from the output SSR to the bandheaters? Means the neutral goes dirctly to the heaters while the live passes via the SSR? You could also measure if you have AC on your heaters when the SSR/PID is supposed to heat.
@alexklara If you think that plastic bans are ridiculous, this is your opinion. In Europe however no more plastic straws are sold from 2020. I personally think that straws are anyway the most useless invention humans ever made.
On the other hand, in most of developped countries around the globe, there are laws which regulate anything which is in touch with food or beverages. I doubt that a garage workshop will ever have a label to produce straws from recycled plastics.
It’s not only about the diameter of the holes but also about space between holes, this is often defined as % of “air”. My seive has 8mm holes but rather big spaces between holes. Which introduces accumulation of flakes on one side of the shredder.
Did you also change place the thermocouples and PIDs, i mean did you change the whole chain?
What i would do is to measure the power consumption of each heater with an ampere-meter.
Normally, the axe should be 20mm and not 19mm, measure again to be sure. Then you would need an axe (26mm) with a key insert to put in your gearbox, and on the other side turn it down to 25mm (if you know soeone with a lathe). You can then use this kind of couplings:
I send this folder to the laser company :
Do you use the compression screw (as in the video) or the wood drill?
Which kind of motor do you use (power, rpm) ?
If your workshop has three-phase supply, than i would look for a three phase motor.
So this is unfair, i just wanted to reply to PPME and he is not there anymore. What a pity. Maybe @occupypp can pass the message. Actually, in some very rare cases you can use tin on your cables. I just wanted to say that you are not completely wrong.
Btw, How is the weather in turkey ?
Wow, i wouldn’t want to pay the moulds for that!
If you crimp correctly, the cable doesn’t slip out, it’s a reliable connection. It’s done for! So when you are talking about russian roulette with 50% of success, i don’t want to know how you crimp.
@PPME Why solder? What is that supposed to do?
You don’t need to ground each bandheater. You need to ground the chassis at some (one) point. As everything of this machine is metal, each part will be grounded. But verify this with a multimeter.
And don’t put solder on your cables, we don’t do this anymore since decades. Use crimpconnectors.
Also, you’re right with the two cables to connect to your wall outlet, the one with the fuse, the other one on the right and ground.
The fuse is a fuse and not a lamp! Means a device which will protect from pulling to much current from the outlet. (In case of a shortcircuit for example.)
AND PLEASE PLEASE, don’t take the switch in your hands like that after plugging it into AC, this is very dangerous. You don’t even need to be naked or sweaty to get electrised.
The blue goes to neutral, the red to live/phase and the green/yellow goes earth/ground .
Wall outlet :
one hole of your outlet == Blue
the other hole == Red
earth == yellow/green which goes to all metalparts of your machine.
The ground wire needs to be safely connected to your injection machine, means to any metal part which a human could accidentally (or not) touch. If you don’t ground your machine, if ever you have a problem with your ac-cabling you have the risk of electrocution, and you want to avoid that.
Other than that, there is the schema of the cabling in the build-folder.
The best solution we found is to buy a silent garden shredder, preferably 2nd hand. The motor is rated 2800W, single phase with gearbox and a resulting RPM of 42. Works well in my shredder. We are a couple of french people using this motor.
I got my garden shredder 2nd hand for 20 Euros (broke, but motor was good).
You recognise the good model at the square faceplate, like on the photo. For info, the shredder on the photo is sold new for 159 € in France.
Another good thing is that two of the fixations will perfectly align the axes.
Quite a lot of ink dripping down for one single person.
1) you need a cad-programm to open the files, eg Autocad. Freecad also works to open most of the files, freecad is crossplatform ond free.
2) give them the “laserfiles” folder.
3) You probably want to take the upgrade version in /precious-plastic-kit-master/3. Build/Upgrades/Shredder 2.1 (holes,sieve,hopper)
You don’t need to find another one, you need to find one which is specified for your PID. Which is a K-Type, btw.