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You need to look for a company that offers metal laser cutting or waterjet service.
Here are a few places I found in Indonesia:
Just contact them, send them the DWG files attached on the project files and ask them for a quotation.
Hope to see new posts from you showing your creations soon 😉
They should not be any rusting, unless you expose the machine to water or a very humid environment. If this is a problem for you, I would suggest getting a stainless steel tube.
@luisa I used an angle grinder for the exterior and a dremel with a grinding stone for all the internal grinding. I actually recommend using a diamond grinding file instead of a dremel to polish the internal sides of the hexagon holes, but I did not have one handy so just decided to use a dremel. Depending on how dirty the laser-cut job was for your parts, you might have to do a lot of grinding to make the knives and spacers fit on the hex bar.
Yes, an Universal Joint will work just fine, probably better than a Jaw Coupling since the Universal Joint allows for a little more misalignment.
@lyricalpolymath it’s great to hear that your machine is now working as expected, I know jaw couplings were the solution to your machine alignment problem, they are awesome pieces of engineering 😉
You probably had a rush of joy after watching the machine spinning that smoothly.
And thanks for the tip, I’ll try doing something similar with mine and see what happens. Quick question: How did you determine that your machine had 1.5mm-2mm extra thickness? Did you measure each knife/spacer/fixed-knife individually, or just measured the lenght of “A” (see picture below)?
If I understand correctly, the knives, spacers and fixed knives had a measure of 2mm~ (represented as “A” in the picture below). Since all that parts are located on one side of the machine only, the machine would jam when you tried to tighten the bolts located on the “B” side of the machine, because B was 1~2mm shorter than “A”, correct?
@vidabella I suggest you to contact [email protected] and [email protected] by email, they worked together to adapt the machine units to use Imperial measures, they should be able to sell you a shredder as well. They are based on Dallas, but shipping the machine to Michigan should not be a problem.
Not sure what you mean by legal, but if it helps: If you can shred it and melt it, then you can use it.
Ubuntu is an OS, there is no need for an extra block to add support for an OS. This has to be integrated within the cellphone’s firmware (motherboard/ROM block) and then you can just flash the desired OS on the cellphone’s memory, or have a multiboot system.
Google is already working on it, and will start mass producing the phone on 2017:
If it helps, this is the one I purchased:
@thewrench I suggest you to contact [email protected] and [email protected] by email, they worked together to adapt the machine units to use Imperial measures, they should be able to sell you a shredder as well. They are based on Dallas, but shipping the machine to Michigan should not be a problem.
The Korean-English translation on your post makes it almost unreadable. Unfortunately, your request is hard to understand. Would you mind posting your request on your native language? We can then translate it from Korean to English, that might help us to help you better 😉
Adding @davehakkens for the Copyright questions.
On regards of the heating elements, all of that can be found on the Bill of Materials, but here are some specific examples:
BandHeater = Search for “Mica Band Heater” on ebay or amazon, they are all the same, but make sure that you select the one for the right voltage. If you have 220v at home and you buy a 110v band heater, you will burn it.
Thermocouple = This is a Type K thermocouple. if you want, buy a combo like THIS ONE, since it includes the PID controller, thermocouple and SSR (3 of the things you need for the extruder project). You will also need a power supply like THIS ONE to power the electronic elements.
@undacarlos Correcto, el costo final de todas las maquinas es muchísimo mayor al expuesto aqui. Creo que Dave puso esos precios debido a que el trabaja en un taller y tenía todas las partes a su disposición prácticamente gratis.
Yo tambien estoy trabajando en el shredder, ya tengo todo pero me está costando un poco de trabajo socar los tornillos para dejar todo fijo y que la máquina gire libremente. Por alguna razon si apreto los tornillos todo se traba.
En el foro hay un monton de temas de gente de habla hispana. Si tienes alguna duda puedes crear un nuevo tema ya sea en ingles o en español y alguien de la comunidad (probablemente yo) te reponda pronto
I know my response is almost 1 month late, but all those details are included on the PDF files, but just to make it easier for you:
Diameter of the round part of the Hex bar: 20mm
The bearings you need are 2 x UCFL204 20mm, these are the one’s I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B67EI72/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@lyricalpolymath installing a Jaw Coupling does not require any professional knowledge, the only thing you need to know is the diameter of the 2 shafts, then you buy 2 jaw couplings (1 for each shaft) and a rubber spider that goes in between the 2 couplings. On the video, they make it look way more complicated than it actually is.
After watching your video, it is now clear that your machine has an alignment problem. Either the bearings are not perfectly aligned (maybe the holes that hold the screws of the bearing were not cut correctly) or your hex bar is twisted
Ideally, the best would be to disassemble the whole machine and validate that the shaft and both bearings are perfectly aligned, but a Jaw Coupling should help you to correct that misalignment. I recommend LoveJoy Jaw Couplings,but any other brand should do it:
@lyricalpolymath if you want my opinion, we have already spent too much on this machine to give up 😉
I sen’t my shredder to a machinist to see if he can get it aligned and soldered. Unfortunately, I don’t have a welding machine at home and my tools are very limited as well (I had to buy an angle grinder a few weeks ago to get the parts cleaned), so I just decided to let a professional fix it (or try to….)
@lyricalpolymath thanks for your response. Yes, I already checked all what you suggested and indeed, if I loosen the screws and the bearings the shaft spins freely, but I dont think it’s a good idea to leave a shredder with loose bolts and nuts.
Probably this is that Dave Hakkens refered to when he said that we needed to “align the machine” before soldering it. There’s really nothing you can align, except for how tight the nuts and bolts are.
– How many people have actually built the shredder?
You will need to setup a real poll if you want to get an answer, surveymonkey or google forms should do the job.
– Can you please share how it works for you? we need benchmarks (does it get stuck? does it chew everything or not? is it slow? what motor are you using? problems you had with assembling the shredder body? etc)
I have not tested my shredder yet because I’m still stuck with the assembly process. The laser-cut parts didn’t turn out as I expected.
I saw both of your videos and noticed that the plastic is not going around the shredder blades, so I’m assuming the shredder is accumulating all the shredded plastic between the blades and the grill until there’s no more room for more plastic and it gets clogged. Your motor looks powerful enough so I don’t think it’s a lack of torque. Have you tried removing the bottom grill and testing the shredder for a while? The grill might be too close to the blades, causing the shredder to get clogged.
– Q: Anyone know a way to measure the exact KW and Nm output of the motor?
If you dont have a Newton-Meter or Torque-Meter, you will have to trust on the specifications of your motor and gearbox.
– is it the shredder that is not well assembled?
I am currently experiencing all the problems you described. I sent the drawings to a laser cutting company, and the parts they sent me looked awful, not even close to Dave Hakkens’s shredder pieces. I assume this is because he cut his parts with a waterjet machine which makes cuts much cleaner than a laser cutter. I cleaned the parts and the hex-holes of my blades are 1mm bigger than the Hex shaft on every side of the hexagon.
– Q: can the parts wiggle (move) a bit or they must be perfectly stiff?
I believe that it should not be a big deal if the blades wiggle a little in the same orientation as the shaft rotation. However, if they move sidewise, the blades may hit the shredding fixed knifes and break your machine.
– is it an alignment problem between motor and shaft of the shredder?
Now that you mention it, it is very likely that this is your problem. Adding rubber underneat the motor is not a good idea, the motor should be fixed rock-solid to the frame. When your shredder is trying to shred hard plastic, the torque increases. The rubber allows the motor to have some movement, which causes the motor and the shredder to lose alignment and locks the rotation.
– Q: is it normal that the shaft and motor wiggle a bit when activated (and not screwed to the table), or is that a sign that there is something wrong?
No, it is not normal. The only visible movement when the machine is turned on, should be the Hex shaft spinning smoothly. Any “wiggling” indicates an alignment problem or bend shaft. Make sure that your Hex Shaft and the Motor Shaft are perfectly flat. Turning the machine ON when it was not fully aligned and fixed to the frame might have twisted/bent the hex bar or the motor’s shaft.
– Q: @paulfreed what is that black thing you have between your motor and the shaft of the shredder? is that a silent block of sorts? any suggestions?
I am not paulfreed but I can answer this. That “black thing” is an “Oldham Coupling”. The one you have is a fixed coupling but there are several other coupling options. For instance, I decided to use “Jaw Type Couplings” like this and this
It would just be a matter of removing the iframe and putting all the code directly into the body of the page, although it may affect the responsive design that is currently implemented.
I wish I had seen this update earlier. I ended up cutting the knifes with the 27mm hex hole, but I was only able to find a 1″ hex bar, and now the knifes fit loose into the shaft.
One company offered me to make a 27mm hex shaft from a steel round tube, but they were charging $200 for that work, so I ended up buying the 1″ bar.
Just fyi, you can bring your motor to an electrician or someone who works with electric motors, and they can convert your motor from tri-phase to mono-phase
PDT: “Auger Shredder” and “Pipe Shredder” are not the official names of those machines, I made them up 😉